Budapest is not so much a phoenix risen from the ashes more a phoenix with a bit of a makeover and a few nips and tucks here and there. A miscellany of architectural styles that combine 13th century medieval with 18th century Baroque, 19th century neo-Gothic and, latterly, Art Nouveau with the more doubtful offerings of the 20th century. Having survived the ministrations of the Mongols, Turks, Hapsburgs and Nazis and after shrugging off the yoke of Soviet rule Budapest is now under onslaught from the West.

Apart from the usual influx of fast food restaurants and the inevitable rise in petty crime, Hungary's capital city is surviving this latest invasion fairly well. Every year thousands of tourists roam the banks of the Danube armed with travellers cheques and Hungarian Forint (Ft) in eager search of goulash, paprika and? well what else? What does 'The Pearl of the Danube' have to offer?